Cairo is an amazing hustle-bustle and I am always invigorated by its speedy, raucous, neon-bright pleasures.
But, there is one thing I can't stand. I can bear the pollution, the dry heat, the simultaneously gross and refreshing droplets of water from high up air-conditioning units, the traffic, the incessant beeping, being ripped off occasionally (hey, it happens everywhere) and waking up with cotton-mouth from dehydration. But the harassment on the streets drives me crazy. Literally. I become a madwoman, overcome by indignation at the fact that women have to put up with this. Not just in Cairo, but anywhere.
Despite covering from wrist to ankle, sitting in the backseats of taxis, making sure everyone knows I'm married, and avoiding long walks alone, I still get my fair share of harassment. It's usually just men saying things like "ya mozza, 3asal, sukkar" - calling me "honey" or "sexy girl," but sometimes men will follow me, expose themselves, start masturbating next to me, drive accident-distance close, or be more threatening. I've kind of learned to tune most of it out, but there are times when it's terrifying, and I have to do something.
A few days ago I threw rocks at two guys zooming dangerously close to me on their motorcycle and screaming obscenities at me. Effective, but my aim wasn't good enough. Yesterday I kind of lost it and lashed out at a group of guys who were saying unpleasant things and had surrounded me. The minute I hit two of them (extremely hard) they kind of scurried off, but I don't think this is always the best way to manage, particularly if there are larger groups. The most enraging thing is that usually when a woman reacts, the harasser laughs, as though he's kind of won. I have yet to figure out a way that actually gets the message across, but for now knowing that I have ways to protect myself helps me to be calmer and less scared.
Loads of people living here (expats and Egyptians) have suggested some strategies beyond the basic covering-up and avoiding isolated areas - research actually shows that most women harassed in Egypt wear the niqab or face-veil.
- Put on your game face. Walk confidently and act like no one can harm you. Wear headphones and sunglasses.
- SPEAK UP!! Make a scene in public. Scream in Arabic or in English. Supposedly very effective - Egyptians rate their honour and hate to be embarrassed in public.
- Carry a rape whistle or mace spray (illegal in Egypt, but then again, so is sexual assault)
- Trust your instincts and never make eye contact with anyone.
- Duck into a shop or pharmacy for help. The police aren't always effective and usually just make the problem worse. For stalker cases or worse though, I'd definitely recommend filing a report.
I've found that I'm typically harassed in non-neighbourhood areas, e.g. shopping areas, larger streets that don't have a community feel, etc. People are less likely to harass in mahally/local areas where everyone knows them, or where they can be held accountable, as opposed to crowded places where they are just passing through. I feel completely safe and protected in my neighbourhood and have never had a problem - everyone sees me every day, knows me, and I'm pretty sure they would stand up for me. It's just bigger streets (like Ahmed Orabi or Gamaat Al Dowal), bridges, and groups of policemen that are the worst places.
An NGO is currently working on a project called Harassmap that will allow women to report incidents via sms and work towards changing the perception of sexual harassment in Egypt.
Stay safe!
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