This week we traveled to Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories. Needless to say, the trip brought up many complex emotions, and confirmed what I already knew about the injustice of the situation. However, we found everyone we came across to be warm and friendly, and I would highly recommend a visit if you can swing it.
We crossed the Egyptian border at Taba, managing to avoid both the Egyptian and Israeli passport stamps. Being brown, I was questioned - nay, interrogated - by Israeli border police for 15 minutes, until they were satisfied that I had no connections to Pakistan.
Since we missed the bus to Jerusalem, we hopped on one going to Tel Aviv, where we had the best breakfast ever at Benedicte, and walked around for a few hours, noticing how eery and European the city felt. The next morning we took a sheroot (shared taxi) to Jaylem. P and I both hate sightseeing, so our version is just incredibly whirlwind stop-offs and one picture at the "must-see" sights, then off to the more leisurely and enjoyable activities of exploring and spending all day eating. We ate hummous every meal for 5 days straight - that's how good it was, and stayed in the Eastern quarter. It was incredible to see the mashup of people in the holy city - an interesting place for us atheists - the tourists (mostly Polish), Armenians, Greeks, Palestinian Muslims and Christians, orthodox and not-so-orthodox Jews. After a day and a half of Jerusalem, we went to Ramallah, where the Palestinian Authority is based. Pete got a haircut and we went to Yasser Arafat's tomb. Eid was just around the corner, so the streets were full of people shopping. The contrast between the Israeli side (green) and Palestinian side (dry and brown) was ridiculous. As we left, two soldiers, armed to the teeth with gigantic machine guns, inspected our bus and our passports.
Given our personal experience, I would like to urge everyone to join me in a consumer boycott of Israeli Settlement produce. I'm sure most of you are familiar with the conflict and the situation: Palestinians are being forced into smaller and smaller areas while their land and resources are confiscated, routinely denied freedom of movement, and separated by a growing "security fence" which is 8 meters high (twice the height of the Berlin wall) that is referred to as the Apartheid wall. Israelis claim it is necessary for security, but it's built in a way that cuts off Palestinian areas from each other and from access to resources that are rightfully theirs according to international law. What we saw was disturbing and unsettling. P and I had no problem getting through ominous checkpoints at the wall that look like high security prisons, but it's not so simple for Palestinians. At the Bethlehem foot passenger checkpoint you have to walk 200 metres enclosed by grates to arrive in a holding area that looks like a warehouse, go through a turnstile, pass through security, put your bags through xray machines and walk through a detector, go through another turnstile and wait in line to show your documents. It took us almost an hour to get through, but lines can last much longer. We saw a group of schoolchildren being hassled. Imagine having to go through airport security every single day on your way to work, or on your way to the hospital for an emergency, or to go to school. This is the reality for Palestinians. Palestinian people engage in non-violent resistance every single day just by going about their daily activities; activities like work and going to school that the occupying forces make incredibly difficult.
While I realize it's not possible to boycott all the products listed, and all the companies that contribute to human rights abuses in Palestinian territories, there are a few significant ones. Such boycotts have been instrumental in weakening support for the apartheid regime in South Africa and I hope they will eventually have a positive influence in destroying Israeli apartheid. Boycotts generate bad reputations and apply economic pressure for change.
Please take a moment to read how your individual actions can help:
http://www.endtheoccupation.org/article.php?list=type&type=203
http://bdsmovement.net/?q=node/9#cont2
Products you may be most familiar with are Intel, Motorola, Caterpillar, Estee Lauder, Jaffa oranges, Coca Cola and Ahava Dead Sea cosmetics. Produce that starts with the barcode 729 denotes Israeli origin.
The full call to boycott can be read here:
http://bdsmovement.net/?q=node/52
Pictures to follow!
December 05, 2010
October 20, 2010
Social Media Win; VBS Fail
I've recently discovered the joy of twitter. I was once loathe to use it, but now that I know I can use it for amazing, activisty purposes..... all bets are off. Today I called @VBS_UK out on this horrifyingly offensive "documentary". The poor, ignorant host Sarah Harris reduces India to a "land of contrasts" and talks matter-of-factly about "fat, blue-skinned, gold bikini wearing Gods." All this in addition to misrepresenting sex workers and having absolutely no knowledge of trans issues. I'm shocked that VBS couldn't (wouldn't?) see how almost every aspect of this film is thoroughly problematic.
The bright side of this is that almost anyone can use new media to fight back or have their voices heard. In a brilliant response video, the subjects of Harris' film reject the reductive, misrepresenting, racist and disdainful portrayal of their lives and realities and call her out for not using informed consent forms.
An open letter to VBS by AWID (Association for Women's Rights in Development) aims to counter such inaccurate representations and prevent VBS from spreading such a fallacious and offensive film. Women in such situations are often just the object of an often uninformed Western gaze and are unable to put forth accurate self-representations due to the dominance of Western media, but now have seized the opportunity to speak up for themselves! Sign the petition!
The bright side of this is that almost anyone can use new media to fight back or have their voices heard. In a brilliant response video, the subjects of Harris' film reject the reductive, misrepresenting, racist and disdainful portrayal of their lives and realities and call her out for not using informed consent forms.
An open letter to VBS by AWID (Association for Women's Rights in Development) aims to counter such inaccurate representations and prevent VBS from spreading such a fallacious and offensive film. Women in such situations are often just the object of an often uninformed Western gaze and are unable to put forth accurate self-representations due to the dominance of Western media, but now have seized the opportunity to speak up for themselves! Sign the petition!
October 19, 2010
At-Tahharrush, or, Daily Harassment in Cairo
Cairo is an amazing hustle-bustle and I am always invigorated by its speedy, raucous, neon-bright pleasures.
But, there is one thing I can't stand. I can bear the pollution, the dry heat, the simultaneously gross and refreshing droplets of water from high up air-conditioning units, the traffic, the incessant beeping, being ripped off occasionally (hey, it happens everywhere) and waking up with cotton-mouth from dehydration. But the harassment on the streets drives me crazy. Literally. I become a madwoman, overcome by indignation at the fact that women have to put up with this. Not just in Cairo, but anywhere.
Despite covering from wrist to ankle, sitting in the backseats of taxis, making sure everyone knows I'm married, and avoiding long walks alone, I still get my fair share of harassment. It's usually just men saying things like "ya mozza, 3asal, sukkar" - calling me "honey" or "sexy girl," but sometimes men will follow me, expose themselves, start masturbating next to me, drive accident-distance close, or be more threatening. I've kind of learned to tune most of it out, but there are times when it's terrifying, and I have to do something.
A few days ago I threw rocks at two guys zooming dangerously close to me on their motorcycle and screaming obscenities at me. Effective, but my aim wasn't good enough. Yesterday I kind of lost it and lashed out at a group of guys who were saying unpleasant things and had surrounded me. The minute I hit two of them (extremely hard) they kind of scurried off, but I don't think this is always the best way to manage, particularly if there are larger groups. The most enraging thing is that usually when a woman reacts, the harasser laughs, as though he's kind of won. I have yet to figure out a way that actually gets the message across, but for now knowing that I have ways to protect myself helps me to be calmer and less scared.
Loads of people living here (expats and Egyptians) have suggested some strategies beyond the basic covering-up and avoiding isolated areas - research actually shows that most women harassed in Egypt wear the niqab or face-veil.
- Put on your game face. Walk confidently and act like no one can harm you. Wear headphones and sunglasses.
- SPEAK UP!! Make a scene in public. Scream in Arabic or in English. Supposedly very effective - Egyptians rate their honour and hate to be embarrassed in public.
- Carry a rape whistle or mace spray (illegal in Egypt, but then again, so is sexual assault)
- Trust your instincts and never make eye contact with anyone.
- Duck into a shop or pharmacy for help. The police aren't always effective and usually just make the problem worse. For stalker cases or worse though, I'd definitely recommend filing a report.
I've found that I'm typically harassed in non-neighbourhood areas, e.g. shopping areas, larger streets that don't have a community feel, etc. People are less likely to harass in mahally/local areas where everyone knows them, or where they can be held accountable, as opposed to crowded places where they are just passing through. I feel completely safe and protected in my neighbourhood and have never had a problem - everyone sees me every day, knows me, and I'm pretty sure they would stand up for me. It's just bigger streets (like Ahmed Orabi or Gamaat Al Dowal), bridges, and groups of policemen that are the worst places.
An NGO is currently working on a project called Harassmap that will allow women to report incidents via sms and work towards changing the perception of sexual harassment in Egypt.
Stay safe!
But, there is one thing I can't stand. I can bear the pollution, the dry heat, the simultaneously gross and refreshing droplets of water from high up air-conditioning units, the traffic, the incessant beeping, being ripped off occasionally (hey, it happens everywhere) and waking up with cotton-mouth from dehydration. But the harassment on the streets drives me crazy. Literally. I become a madwoman, overcome by indignation at the fact that women have to put up with this. Not just in Cairo, but anywhere.
Despite covering from wrist to ankle, sitting in the backseats of taxis, making sure everyone knows I'm married, and avoiding long walks alone, I still get my fair share of harassment. It's usually just men saying things like "ya mozza, 3asal, sukkar" - calling me "honey" or "sexy girl," but sometimes men will follow me, expose themselves, start masturbating next to me, drive accident-distance close, or be more threatening. I've kind of learned to tune most of it out, but there are times when it's terrifying, and I have to do something.
A few days ago I threw rocks at two guys zooming dangerously close to me on their motorcycle and screaming obscenities at me. Effective, but my aim wasn't good enough. Yesterday I kind of lost it and lashed out at a group of guys who were saying unpleasant things and had surrounded me. The minute I hit two of them (extremely hard) they kind of scurried off, but I don't think this is always the best way to manage, particularly if there are larger groups. The most enraging thing is that usually when a woman reacts, the harasser laughs, as though he's kind of won. I have yet to figure out a way that actually gets the message across, but for now knowing that I have ways to protect myself helps me to be calmer and less scared.
Loads of people living here (expats and Egyptians) have suggested some strategies beyond the basic covering-up and avoiding isolated areas - research actually shows that most women harassed in Egypt wear the niqab or face-veil.
- Put on your game face. Walk confidently and act like no one can harm you. Wear headphones and sunglasses.
- SPEAK UP!! Make a scene in public. Scream in Arabic or in English. Supposedly very effective - Egyptians rate their honour and hate to be embarrassed in public.
- Carry a rape whistle or mace spray (illegal in Egypt, but then again, so is sexual assault)
- Trust your instincts and never make eye contact with anyone.
- Duck into a shop or pharmacy for help. The police aren't always effective and usually just make the problem worse. For stalker cases or worse though, I'd definitely recommend filing a report.
I've found that I'm typically harassed in non-neighbourhood areas, e.g. shopping areas, larger streets that don't have a community feel, etc. People are less likely to harass in mahally/local areas where everyone knows them, or where they can be held accountable, as opposed to crowded places where they are just passing through. I feel completely safe and protected in my neighbourhood and have never had a problem - everyone sees me every day, knows me, and I'm pretty sure they would stand up for me. It's just bigger streets (like Ahmed Orabi or Gamaat Al Dowal), bridges, and groups of policemen that are the worst places.
An NGO is currently working on a project called Harassmap that will allow women to report incidents via sms and work towards changing the perception of sexual harassment in Egypt.
Stay safe!
October 14, 2010
Blanket Sky
Last weekend we finally made it to the White Desert. A six hour trip from Cairo Turgoman to Bawiti in the Bahariyya Oasis (with obligatory blaring film on bus) followed by a three hour drive in a landrover leads to my favourite place on earth bar none: a moonscape under perforated skies, watching foxes shamelessly court your attention with their pretty eyes.
This was a repeat trip for me, and some guy from the village actually recognized me from when I was in Bawiti in 2006, staying at the now (thankfully) defunct Paradise Hotel. Lonely Planet had described it as the cheapest night in town with the bare basics, but it was nothing but dusty mattresses and three waterless, flush-less toilets. That trip was memorable for many reasons, one of the main ones being that my two fellow travelers didn't use the facilities for the duration of our three day trip. I, on the other hand, shamelessly used a different bathroom each day. I went by to check it the Paradise in its current iteration as the village mosque. We slept overnight in the desert, awoken periodically by cheeky foxes licking the kettle and trying to find food a few feet away from our heads.
Having not planned in advance, as per usual, we piggybacked on a tour that included a lovely French Canadian couple, two sun-scarred girls from Scotland and Ireland working in Sharm, a really old agricultural expert from New Zealand and his Thai lover, who brought and cooked her own food, applied metallic pink lipstick under the desert sun, and sweetly laughed loudly at anything remotely funny.
P and I escaped in the evening for a long walk alone over some dunes, then lay back watching shooting stars.
PICS coming soon.
This was a repeat trip for me, and some guy from the village actually recognized me from when I was in Bawiti in 2006, staying at the now (thankfully) defunct Paradise Hotel. Lonely Planet had described it as the cheapest night in town with the bare basics, but it was nothing but dusty mattresses and three waterless, flush-less toilets. That trip was memorable for many reasons, one of the main ones being that my two fellow travelers didn't use the facilities for the duration of our three day trip. I, on the other hand, shamelessly used a different bathroom each day. I went by to check it the Paradise in its current iteration as the village mosque. We slept overnight in the desert, awoken periodically by cheeky foxes licking the kettle and trying to find food a few feet away from our heads.
Having not planned in advance, as per usual, we piggybacked on a tour that included a lovely French Canadian couple, two sun-scarred girls from Scotland and Ireland working in Sharm, a really old agricultural expert from New Zealand and his Thai lover, who brought and cooked her own food, applied metallic pink lipstick under the desert sun, and sweetly laughed loudly at anything remotely funny.
P and I escaped in the evening for a long walk alone over some dunes, then lay back watching shooting stars.
PICS coming soon.
October 03, 2010
Alexandria
I was super psyched to go to the white desert last weekend, until we got to the bus station and there was only one seat left on the last bus. So, we headed to Alexandria instead. I got a raging migraine on the way, thanks to the excessively loud movies played on the bus. That, coupled with the heat, forewarned me that this was not to be the best day trip ever. Alex has tons of ruins and beautiful things to see, but most of them are underwater. We skipped Pompei's Pillar (an average, unimpressive stump) and checked out the equally lacklustre catacombs of Khoms el Shefaa before backtracking to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which is a gorgeous example of modern architecture. Still, we had a great time walking around, ghost-town style, and taking pictures.
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