The USSR's curse on Egypt

You know how countries give presents to each other, like France giving the Statue of Liberty to the US, or Norway giving the UK the Trafalgar Square Christmas Tree? Well, the USSR gave Egypt the Mugamma, the ugliest building of all. It's not much better inside, because it's where bureaucratic efficiency goes to die.

Yesterday I had a little day trip there to get my visa renewed. On arrival, I went straight to the second floor, passports, photocopies of initial and entry visa pages, and mini-photographs in hand. Of course I went to the window that said "non-Arab nations tourist visa" i.e., exactly what I needed. Of course it wasn't the right place to be. I waited in line while people thrust their passports around me, over my head, under my arms, in front of my face, etc. to get to the window first. India schooled me in the art of steely elbows, so I managed to retain my spot, only to be told that I needed to see a Mr. Hytham. 3 dudes later, I found the security table, ill-equipped to process the tens of refugees, immigrants, students, and tourists pouring in from all corners. I was ushered to one window, P to another (Poles have to get security clearance), and after handing in a completed form I was sent to another window to get stamps and bring them back. In theory, fairly straightforward, in practice, everything that could possibly complicate the process is done. The person who processes the (paper) applications puts 4 different stamps on each one - we're talking postage stamps here - when it would be so simple to use one. Or a sticker. Or a printer. Or an actual ink stamp!

My application miraculously took only 2 hours, but then I had to go back today and wait for-EVER. The plastic chairs weren't conducive to napping, so I just sat back and watched everyone. There really were people from everywhere - from Lebanese with Bangladeshi passports to Turkish women studying Shari'a at an Egyptian university and Filipina domestic workers. The process was easy for me, but I shudder to think of what it's like for refugees in limbo, always dealing with paperwork and legalities, with residence laws that change from one place to another, constant uncertainty, and the challenge of being forced involuntarily into a new environment.